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Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, and other Brassicas

picture of cabbage one

Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower are hardy crops that can be grown in all areas of New England. They are well adapted to this region and plants maturing under cool weather conditions are of unusually high quality.

Cabbage is the most easily grown of the cole crops. Cauliflower is relatively difficult to grow compared to cabbage. Failure to head properly and poor curd quality are common problems. For successful production of cauliflower, a fertile, moist soil relatively high in organic matter and nitrogen is needed. Cauliflower buttoning is the premature formation of curd, and since the curd forms very early in the plant's life, the leaves are not large enough to nourish the curd to a marketable size. Conditions which reduce the vigor of the plant and retard vegetative growth, such as cold temperatures at transplanting, appear to encourage buttoning. Broccoli is not as exacting in its requirements as cauliflower, however, it must be harvested promptly to avoid flowering. In Southern New England, broccoli is best grown as a fall crop.

Cabbage varieties are available that mature in as little as 60 days or as much as 120 days from transplanting. The early and mid-season varieties are generally better suited for fresh market sales where small heads of 3 to 4 lbs are desired. A number of excellent cauliflower and broccoli varieties are available which range in maturity from 55 to 95 days for cauliflower and 55 to 75 days for broccoli.

Early plantings of cabbage and other cole crops are generally made by setting out transplants grown in greenhouses or cold frames. Transplants should be four to six weeks old at field setting; and, for cauliflower and broccoli, transplants should be produced in greenhouses with a minimum temperature of 55°F. Transplants with thick stems are likely to head prematurely or button. Mid season and late plantings can be transplanted or direct seeded. If cabbage, broccoli or cauliflower are direct seeded, two to three weeks should be added to the number of days to maturity.

Generally, coarse textured soils (sands, sandy loams, etc.) are favored for early plantings because they can be worked earlier in the spring and will warm up faster. These soils are also less likely to become waterlogged under rainy spring conditions. Finer textured soils which have a greater water holding capacity can frequently be used to advantage for producing later crops.

For Current information on production methods (including varieties, spacing, seeding, and fertility), weed, disease, and insect management, please visit the New England Vegetable Management Guide website.

Below you will find additional information on managing this crop, including photos of insects and diseases in this crop, fact sheets, articles, and power point presentations, when available.

CATERPILLARS IN BRASSICAS

    Cabbage, broccoli, collards, kale and other brassica crops may be showing feeding damage from imported cabbageworm and diamondback moth. The collective group of three caterpillar types –generally known as ‘worms in cabbage’ – differ in size and feeding habits, as well as how susceptible they are to certain insecticides. Below are descriptions. See also www.umassvegetable.org for photos.  Cabbage looper has not been observed yet, and usually comes late in the season. See 2006-2007 New England Vegetable Management Guide for insecticides. There are many effective options!

    Imported cabbageworm; cabbage butterfly (Pieris rapae). This familiar white butterfly can be seen in daytime fluttering around cole crop fields. Each forewing has a dark border and one or two round black spots.  Eggs are laid singly on the underside of leaves, about 1/8 inch in length, light green and slightly elongated, standing upright.  The caterpillar, called imported cabbageworm, is gray-green, slightly fuzzy, and sluggish.  Feeding and resting occur on the underside of leaves, and larvae feed more heavily in the head of cabbage or broccoli as they grow.  The overwintering stage is the chrysalis (pupa), which is green or brown, smooth with three pointed ridges on its back.  There are 3-4 generations per year.

    Diamondback moth (Plutella xylostella) caterpillars are smaller, light green, appear more segmented and more pointed in shape. When disturbed they wiggle vigorously and may drop off the plant on a string of silk.  Feeding causes small, round holes and tends to be spread across the foliage and not necessarily concentrated in the head. The adults are tiny (<1/2 inch), light brown, and rest with their wings folded together like a tent. They overwinter in crop residue, but may also enter the region by migrating from southern states.

      Field Scouting for caterpillars:  It is important to check cabbage or broccoli plantings as they begin forming heads. Greens such as collards, kale, and Chinese cabbage should be scouted earlier, since all leaves are marketed.  Check at least 25 randomly-selected plants throughout the field looking for caterpillars on the top or underside of leaves. Feeding damage can be found on the underside of leaves or in the center of the plant where heads are forming.  Often it is easier to spot the feeding damage first, then find the caterpillar. Classify plants as infested (has one or more caterpillar) or non-infested, and calculate the percent of plants infested.  Spray if the threshold is reached.

    It should be noted that these thresholds do not imply that 10 or 15 % of the harvested crop will be infested!  They are based on research trials that showed that use of the thresholds produces 98-100% clean heads, the equivalent of weekly sprays but with far fewer insecticide applications. 

Action thresholds for caterpillars in crucifers:

Crop and Stage

% Infested plants

Cabbage & Broccoli, Cauliflower

  - pre-cupping (before head begins)

35%

Cabbage & Broccoli

15%

Cauliflower

10%

Kale, Collards, & other greens

10-15%

 

-Updated June 2006

Where trade names or commercial products are used, no company or product endorsement is implied or intended.  Always read the label before using any pesticide.  The label is the legal document for product use.  Disregard any information in this newsletter if it is in conflict with the label.

 

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